US Naval Air StationPort Lyautey, Morocco

The following photographs and narrative are from a personal letter collection of Jerry (Gerald J.) Zimmerman who served at NAS Port Lyautey between 8/2/47 to 4/15/48. The personal narrative is a collection of letters to his future "bride" Dolores while on duty with the Navy and in particular, Port Lyautey.

CLICK THIS LINK FOR PHOTOGRAPHIC COLLECTION

The Narrative

Jerry was born and raised in West Allis, Wisconsin where, today, he remains a resident. Following his June, 1946 High School graduation, he enlisted in the Navy. After Boot Camp at Great Lakes he attended the Naval School of Photography in Pensacola, FL. Graduating as an Aerial Photographer, he was assigned to NAS Port Lyautey. The Base was expecting a CPO and at first, Base Commander, Captain Dudley, was not too pleased to have a recent graduate with a Seaman First Class Aerial Photographer rating take charge of "his" Photo Lab! Captain Dudley, reluctantly, gave 19 year old Jerry 6 weeks to demonstrate that he was capable of heading the North African Naval Fleet Post Office Photo Lab. Jerry quickly proved he was, and Captain Dudley accepted him as his personal photographer.

Captain Dudley above, NAS Port Lyautey Base Commander in the 1947 - 1948 time frame, addressing his command after inspection. It is interesting to note that during his tenure as Base Commander, the Naval base became a Naval Air Facility before returning again to the status of Naval Air Station in the early 1950's. Many servicemen in the later 50's, 60's and the final years of the 70's, were unaware that the station began with the designation of NAS, not NAF.

In the latter part of the 1960's and early 1970, the station was redesignated as a Naval Technical Training Center with the prime mission of training Moroccan Air Force Personnel who were now stationed on the base. All former US Naval Air Squadrons had been reassigned to the US Naval Air Station in Rota, Spain

Jerry was one of the last, 2-year Navy enlistees of the "Post War". He was honorably discharged at the end of his assigned, Moroccan duty in April of 1948. After his discharge, Jerry had a successful photographic career in Lithography, retiring in 1988. Following retirement he volunteered as the Wisconsin VFW Newspaper's Photo Editor and columnist through 1996. Then, he volunteered as the Wisconsin State Fair's historian, a position he continues to enjoy and hold in 2007 at age 78.

The following edited version of Jerry's 10 months at NAS Port Lyautey, were taken from the letters he wrote to his high school sweetheart, Dolores. They married June 25, 1949 and look forward to celebrating their 58th anniversary in 2007 with their 3 children and 5 grandchildren.

Mixed within the collection of letters to Dolores which are dated are interesting, notes from 1993 and 1994 that Jerry added as he rewrote the memories of his days in Morocco while gleaning his letters of the love story they contain to his beloved Dolores. They are noted as PostScript.

The personal letters to Dolores lead up to January 1, 1948, when the United States returned NAS Port Lyautey Base Command and control back to the French. The entries end with Jerry's April, 1948 return to the USA. Other interesting events, such as the landing of the first B-29 on an airfield in North Africa, the Base's responsibility to delivering mail to the Mediterranean area's Fleet of ships at sea, personal visits to Rabat, its Medina, and Casablanca are detailed within the edited collection.

GERALD J. ZIMMERMAN AF3 (AERIAL PHOTOGRAPHER) USN
NAS PORT LYAUTEY, FRENCH MOROCCO, NORTH AFRICA
AUGUST 2nd, 1947 to April 15, 1948

Letter to Dolores JUNE 12th THURSDAY--- (aboard the Navy Tankard, USS Canisteo)

I am 8 days out to Sea from the Norfolk Navy Yards now, and this morning our Division Officer said we will anchor at Gibraltar tomorrow afternoon between 1:30 and 3 o'clock. So it is official, and because of this stop I won't be going to Naples. How I will get from the "Rock" to Lyautey is anyone's guess. By next Monday I should know.

The sun is warm today, we are out of the Labrador Current again and the water is a richer, deeper blue than ever.

I have never told you about the Ships mascot. He is a brown mongrel named "Lucky", but he is better known as "Sh** Bird". In the morning when the loud speakers pipe the call to Quarters for everybody to Muster up on the cargo deck he's the first to shoot out of our compartment and on to the deck. When Chow is piped down on the speakers he is the first one to go tearing up the ladder to the Galley. He sleeps near my bunk and when ever an Officer comes near the compartment, even before we know it, he barks his fool head off! That lets anyone doing something he shouldn't be doing to shape up.---I am off to Chow now.----

--Well here I am back---had pork chops today. We are listening to a Portugal radio station. Land has been reported as being 200 miles away. That means we will be in sight of land by dawn. I hope that I get ashore and mail these letters as soon as possible tomorrow. I hope you haven't worried about me, and hope that you accept this long line of letters aboard this ship as an apology for not writing as regular as I should have while I was delayed at the Brooklyn Navy Yard. I washed my two jumper's stripes last night, so they are ready for either a Liberty or storing. I sure hope that I fly back home as one Ocean ride aboard a Ship is enough for me. I guess I am what they call "LAND BASED AND AIRBORNE!"

Letter to Dolores JUNE 15th, SUNDAY N.A.S. NAVY 214, PORT LYAUTEY, FRENCH MOROCCO

We sighted land Friday morning about 7 o'clock and it was the coast of Portugal. For some time it looked like the hills of the coast line, but as we got closer we could see that they were mountains, the highest I have seen. I spent most of the morning watching things on the coast become larger and larger.

It wasn't till after Chow that we were in view of the Rock of Gibraltar. It didn't look like much at first, but sure proved something to see after we got closer to it. You could see the fortifications all over it, and the town along the bottom of the "Rock". My ship, the oil tanker Canisteo, didn't go into the Dock Area, but anchored out in the Bay. Some boats from the Destroyer Tender, the "Shenandoah", came out to pick us passengers up.

Ship mate Beneke and I didn't know how long we would be at Gibraltar, but we were hoping that we could get in a week end on the "Rock". But on Saturday morning we were surprised to learn that we were to have our gear packed and ready to go by 11:30 A.M. More to our surprise was that we were to fly to Morocco.

The plane was a Navy C-47 Mail Plane. We took off and had a great view of the "Rock" as we took off from the runway that lies just east of the high flat face of the famed "Rock". We had it in our sights as we climbed, and as we circled to head South across the gap of the separation of the Atlantic to the Mediterranean Sea. I was surprised that I could make out the very top, northwest side of Africa, appearing much like I remembered it looking on a map. Right below us we could see Tangiers, and we landed there to leave off mail for that U.S. Consulate. Then we took off and flew to Lyautey non stop. All along the way we were able to see small villages of grass huts, just like in the movies. There were many sheep and goat herds below us too, which made it a very interesting and picturesque flight. We landed on the air field that didn't seem all that long. There was a very large Hangar and a number of planes about it on the apron. To the West was a very high hill and on top of it were three large white buildings. The building on the far left was to be where I will live. The Base is very small as buildings are concerned, and there is a lot of open land. After Don and I got squared away we went to a place on the Base called the "Oasis". There they have a recreation center built in a couple of "Quonset Huts" joined together. They sell beer, soda, short orders, and sandwiches. The buildings look a little primitive on the outside, but are very sharp on the inside.

The Hill - From the NAS P.L. Hangar Roof - September 1947...

There are more than beautiful clouds to see in this picture! Note to the bottom left and you will see the tail end of a banged up British Mosquito Bomber. It had made a crash landing shortly after Jerry's arrival at the base in August of 1947. Late in September of 1947 a British crew came in and put it back together again. Looking along the base of "the hill" and just above the left to right landing strip you will see many, many Army vehicles that were abandoned there for whatever reason. Jerry recalls there was a time the US planned to ship them home but it never happened, and they were left there to rust away. The vehicle area would become the location for the FASRON 104, VR-24 and ECM-2 Hangars in the 1950's.

After Chow I looked up one of the three Photo Mates stationed here. When I found him he showed me around the Base which is pretty nice. I think I will like it better than Pensacola. We have the same kind of lockers, too. Two of the Photo Mates are Third Class Petty Officers, and one is a "Striker" who I out rank. This is why a Chief was supposed to come in. I am told I will be the second in command of the Lab, until the Third Class that is now in charge returns to the States. He is the one I was brought over to replace. The other 3rd Class is the 4-U Squadron Photographer and just uses the Lab for his film and print processing. The "Striker" is just a "sweeper" and a chemical mixer. He has the position I would have hoped for if I hadn't gone through school and graduated with my First Class Photographers rating. The Operations Officer is a bit angry that the Photo School pulled a fast one on him and sent a graduate student here. He said that he likes my recommendations and my good grades and will give me a chance to see how I work out in the Lab. If I do well before the present 3rd Class moves out, I will have the Lab as my own! He said if I do not work out I will still stay but that a Chief would be called right away. I told the Commander that I was confident that I would be able to handle it because the Chiefs at the School would not have sent me otherwise. The Commander, sitting at his desk, looked up and right into my eyes, at first he was very stern and I felt myself break out into a sweat. Then he smiled and said, "I think so too…Zimmerman, you are dismissed." That sure felt good!

One disappointment. Because my duties are not tied to the Air Base itself I will not draw flight pay. I will be doing some flying, but I will not be listed as having flying status as far as the pay roll goes. I will also have to get a Passport. I don't understand that, but then this is the Navy you know. Just so I do fly now and then.

The Commander says he wants me to become a Third Class Petty Officer as soon as possible. He says I must wait 6 months from the time I graduated in April. I don't mind the delay, and I don't mind not flying, I do mind not getting the extra money. That money would have meant a savings that would have made it a better start for us after I am discharged. So it goes I guess.

I have been told by the fellows here that you are sent home about 6 months before you rate a Terminal Leave, so it is possible that I might get home by late February or March. Of course that sounds like the old song and dance we went through at the Lakes and Pensy doesn't it? The Lab here is a beauty!

Letter to Dolores JUNE 16th, MONDAY

I got paid this afternoon. The three other Photo Mates seem like a good bunch. All are my age or a year or two older. I have the duty tonight so that is why I'll work on my film. I have nothing to do but standby in case there is any emergency that may need to be photographed. No calls and my time is my own as long as I stay in the Lab.

Tomorrow night Curry and I, the 3rd Class and the one that I am 2nd to, are going to town--Lyautey--or maybe Rabat. This may seem a little complicated so go through this slowly. Curry is a Syrian because that is what his mother is, she raised him in the Canary Islands, but because she gave birth to him in the United States he has dual citizenship and was able to enlist in the Navy here in Port Lyautey. He started as a Striker here in the Lab and has worked him self up to his 3rd Class rating. He can speak Spanish, knows some French and Arabic, so he will be able to show me around pretty good.

We are rationed here and I got my Ration Card this morning. A bit of the reason for being on rations for these particular items is that most of them are worth a lot on the black market here and this is one way to keep things from getting out of control. My rations are as follows: 1 box of candy, 6 cartons of cigarettes, 3 boxes of cleaning tissue, 1 roll of film (HA-HA-HA-HA-we'll have to do something about that!), 6 boxes of laundry soap, 8 cans of nuts, 5 bars of toilet soap, 1 box of gum, 6 cans of juices.

You can see my sweet tooth will run short, I'll be depending on you to help me out. The fellows say not to send any soft candy--although caramels come pretty good. 8:30 P.M.--I have just finished developing 7 rolls of film, so I am going to knock it off and go to the Oasis for a while.

Letter to Dolores JUNE 18th

I enjoyed my first Liberty here very much. Curry is a nice guy and very interesting. Because he speaks three languages, Spanish, French, and Arabic he knows just about everyone in Port Lyautey of importance. That has helped me make some new civilian friends. It is so much like a story book coming to life in town, veiled women, Arabs, tables set out on the side walk, donkey carts, and fellows trying to sell their wares out on the street, and so many unexpected things. We visited our own Navy operated Recreation Center in Port Lyautey. It is big and modern. They have dances, serve beer, Pepsi-cola, short orders, sandwiches, and have a game room. All the fellows are friendly, and there are a number of French and Arabic girls that speak pretty good English. They found out fast that I was fresh from the States and wanted to know some of the latest about that "wonderful land". I had to laugh because when I thought they would really have a blank look on their faces when I said I was from Milwaukee Wisconsin a couple of them said, "OH--where they make much beer!"

I have tasted a number of new wines and my new drink is "Kinkina". I don't know what if that is that is spelled right or not. You pronounce it, "KIN-KEYN-NUN",---heck I don't know, it's good anyway. I am also picking up a little French; my favorite word is "gataue" which means "cake".

Tomorrow night a gang of us are going to celebrate my birthday in Lyautey, it will be quite a change over last year in Boot Camp. I am off to take care of some film that is washing.

Letter to Dolores JUNE 20th, FRIDAY

I had a pretty good Birthday yesterday. We went to town with a gang and enjoyed ourselves a lot. There was a dance at the Recreation Hall and it was nice to watch. The orchestra was a French four piece band and they played all U.S. Music. It seemed pretty much like home listening to them, also you should see the fellows and girls jitterbug, MAN they are better here than at home! I didn't try any dancing and was content to just watch. I visited with the Band and they speak some English. One doubles on sax and clarinet and on one of the numbers he offered me to use his clarinet after I had told him I played one. I did and it was fun. Everyone was asking me what the latest and new songs were in the States. They seemed to know most of them except "Mamselle", "Heartaches", and "Peg of My Heart".

I have Liberty tonight so I will go to town, I will spend the week end on the Base. Next week Curry and I are going to Rabat which is the Capital of Morocco, so I can see what a bigger town looks like over here. Then on some other week end I will visit Casablanca.

Letter to Dolores JUNE 21st, SATURDAY

A week finished here. I went on Liberty last night but there wasn't much doing, so a bunch of us got together at one of the sidewalk Cafe's and talked about home and sang songs, it was a fairly good time.

PostScript This would be a most popular pass time for week day Liberty in Port Lyautey. The town was about 5 miles from the Base. It was not a very large town and if it had not been for the Navy Recreation Building being located there it would not have been a very good Liberty town at all. The weekend dances were something enjoyed by all. Local civilian groups would bring in chaperoned girls that shared dancing and socializing with the servicemen. There were a number of favorite Cafe's and, unfortunately, that meant sooner or later one, two, or more Sailors would have too much to drink, leading to a fight or two. I would gain respect in the months to come because I was not a "drinker." Some of the big party shipmates would trust me with their wallets and depend on me to get them aboard the "last bus" of the night and safely back to the Base.

"THE" Liberty town was Rabat, about 35 miles away by train. Because of the distance it was truly only accessible for weekend Liberty. As we read through these letters we will hear more about this city. Port Lyautey, as did other larger Cities of Morocco, had its "French Section". Each of them were built very modern, were very clean, and, surprisingly, quite populated with French. Those sections seemed more like France than Morocco. In Rabat and Casablanca the French sections were built tight to and just out side a large earth and stone wall, establishing the line between the more modern and the "old City", the Arab section called the Medina. Entering the Medina one walked into the past, seeing it as it was 3---400 years ago or more. Within the Medina's there was also the Jewish Ghetto.

It came as no surprise to me that in the 1950's the Arabs reclaimed the possession of the French influenced Morocco, and banished the French rulers from their country.

Because of bad memories from French colonization, as soon as that happened many of the French landmarks were removed. It was General Lyautey that had conquered the Arabs and, then, led the colonization of the African Morocco. It was in his name and honor that the French changed the Arabic name of Kenitra to Port Lyautey. What the Arabs thought of General Lyautey was quickly understood. When they became a free nation again, one of the first things the Arab leaders did was to rename the city "Kenitra".

What the French thought of General Lyautey came to light in 1990 when Dolores and I visited our daughter Jane when she lived for a year in Paris. She took us to the building called the "Invalides", the place where Napoleon is entombed. I was surprised when I walked into a room to find General Lyautey entombed and honored within eyes view of Napoleon's tomb.

It wasn't until 1993 that I realized Port Lyautey had been renamed. In 1948 and after I left Morocco for home, I had not taken any particular interest in what had happened politically there, other than reading about the problems the French had in the 1950s and that the Arabs had eventually regained control. In 1985, Dolores and I visited Disney's Florida Epcot Center. Because of my lack of any detailed knowledge of the change from French Morocco to Morocco I had a surprise coming. I was not aware that a city named Port Lyautey had not existed in Morocco for nearly 30 years!

We enjoyed visiting Epcot's beautiful reproduction of an ancient Moroccan Medina. It was exactly as I remembered the ones I had seen in 1947 and 1948 in Rabat, Sale, and Casablanca. It was as if I had returned to those wonderful places. I explained to Dolores that if she never had the chance to travel to North Africa she should know the exhibit was close to visiting the real thing.

We learned that the young Arab youths, dressed in native clothing and acting as clerks and guides, were from Morocco. They were spending a period of time in the U.S.A. as ambassadors of their country. I visited with a couple of the young people and it was difficult. They did not understand or speak English very well. I also plead guilty of not remembering ANY Arabic and I was grateful for their effort to communicate with me. I asked if any of them were from Port Lyautey. There seemed to be some confusion among them about that question. I explained that I had been there in 1947and 48 as a member of the U.S. Navy and that I had been stationed at the nearby, Navy Air Base. As they visited amongst themselves I seconded guessed that, perhaps, Morocco covered more territory than I remembered or these young students were not very up on this secondary seaport city. As they continued to visit in Arabic they suddenly brightened up and two of them took me by the hand and led me to an Arab youth in another room. He said, with a smile and a handshake, "yes", he WAS from "Port Lyautey". We visited as best as we could about his home town and, as limited as our conversation was, I was very pleased to have made a contact with him. I left feeling I had returned to Morocco once again.

In the days and years that followed I often wondered WHY had there been so much confusion about this City of Port Lyautey among these seemingly bright, Arab youth? In 1993, when I discovered that this city had become Kenitra, the light went on for me as it had for those young Arabs in 1985. They had all been born years AFTER Port Lyautey became Kenitra and had less reason than I to recall the change. The city had always been Kenitra to them. Because I could not understand Arabic, I had missed the conversation that eventually led to finding an answer for me about Port Lyautey in 1985. They put together my mentioning of a "Navy Air Base" and the years of 1947and 48 and had come up with the recall of the "ancient" name (to them!) of Port Lyautey. It was then that they visited in Arabic with the young man from Kenitra, filled him in on the American that didn't know a heck of a lot about their modern day history. The young man from Kenitra was very kind, he never attempted to set me straight or embarrass me of my ignorance.

If the readers of these letters never travel to Morocco, please consider visiting the Moroccan exhibit at Epcot Center. That will leave you with a living, mental picture of some of what I will be writing here. As these letters continue we will find more about what happened as the result of the Arabs taking over their country from the French in the 1950's

Letter to Dolores JUNE 21st, SATURDAY 1947 (Con't.)

I am going on 20 years of age now, I will be out of the Navy before I have another Birthday, and so would you accept a date to go out with me on the 19th of June 1948? I will take you out for a nice big supper and bring you a big corsage.
I hope that I get a package from you, my Hershey Bars are about gone. The U.S. servicemen can make about 500 to 600 francs for a carton of cigarettes outside on the Black Market and you know how little I smoke. I have 4 cartons left of my ration of six now. We pay 90 cents a carton and a franc is worth less than a penny.

Letter to Dolores JUNE 22nd, SUNDAY

It is 6 P.M. and I guess that is about noon back home, it seems so strange that we are so far a part in time. I knew that we always had the earliest showing of the latest movies at Pensacola. I was always pleased about that, but now I find that I may never see a movie over here that I haven't seen already! Last night it was "The Man I Love" which I had seen, but I didn't mind. Tonight there is a Charlie Chan movie and I plan to go to the late show. If it is one that I have seen I will come back and hit the sack.

Today I took a picture of a colored boy who sleeps in the bunk under me. He wanted it for his mother's birthday and the negatives look pretty good. I haven't had time to print them yet, I will try tomorrow.

PostScript This "colored boy", as we ignorantly referred to our Black friends in the 1940's, was a young Black Afro American named Willie Moore. In sharing our bunk bed and having our lockers next to each other we became good friends. He was one of the early Blacks to be integrated into the white section of the Navy and to share duties. As I recall he was a "striker" at that time in Transportation and was working to move up in the ranks. During November 1993 I received a roster book from the "Port Lyautey Reunion Association" made up of former navy men that had served in Lyautey and were trying to locate guys like me and Willie. It was from that roster book that I had discovered the address of Cmdr. Breedlove, the pilot I wrote about and flew with in Photo School. It was by chance that he had served in Lyautey after I did in the 1950's and had heard about the Reunion Association and joined it. It was just my hunch that he was THE Breedlove when I called and fortunately he WAS! When I was typing the letters and came upon the name of Willie Moore I checked the roster book and there was Willie's San Francisco California telephone number. I called and Willie answered the phone and I asked him if he could recall a tall thin photographer he shared a bunk with in Port Lyautey. Without a hesitation he cheerfully called out "I sure do, is that you Zimmy??? You were one guy that had it all together!" What a pleasant thing to hear after a separation of 46 years. Willie went on to tell me that he made the Navy his career and had retired as a Chief Petty Officer. He had raised five children while in service, and had just returned from Japan where he had been visiting one of his sons who is a career Naval Officer, a Lt. Commander, and a graduate from the Naval Academy, something that was not available for Willie when he entered the Navy back in 1946. Willie and I hope to visit in person some day.

PostScript- In 1993 I received a Christmas card from Willie, and we promised to keep in touch. Sadly, and I believe it was Christmas 2003, I received a Christmas card and note from one of Willie's children informing me he had passed away.

Letter to Dolores JUNE 24th, TUESDAY

I have no excuse not to write, I have the Duty. Sunday night after I finished up here at the Lab Beneke came down and we went to the 8:30 show. I planned to write after the movie. They had a cartoon and of course that pleased me. Half way through the cartoon a call came over the P.A. for the "Duty Photographer". I had to take off and report to the Master At Arms Office and I picked up an order to take pictures of a truck we call a 4X4 that had cracked up on the road to the radio Transmitter. It made me sore that I had to miss the movie, the second time something like that has happened. Well, I jumped into my Jeep and drove down to the Lab to get my gear. I had to take flash shots because it was dark out. Right after taking the pictures I had to go to the Lab and develop them to make sure they would be O.K.---and they were. I hit the sack about 12:30 A.M. with a very satisfied feeling.

I have been studying the books on 3rd Class Photo's Mate, as well as printing some more of my own pictures. In the evening Currie and I shoved off on Liberty. We didn't do much but gab with a gang of buddies here and there about the town. I have learned some French already. I can say "GO AWAY!!" which you must say to the little kid beggars that are always looking for a hand out. They are always poor Arab kids---but they know French as well as they know Arabic--for me I have to learn one language at a time! I also have learned to say good bye, I know, I don't know, yes, ---and even some that I can not publish. I find that swear words are in all languages, and all are the easiest to learn and remember for some reason. The little beggars that pester us for money or treats really laugh when we yell "GO AWAY" in French and follow it up with a burst of swearing in French!

Today I was busy printing up Identification Cards, mixed some developer, and got all my mail ready to go out on time for tomorrow. I heard that a mail plane came in this noon, we probably will not have that sorted out until tomorrow. I found out that Currie doesn't like candy, Toddy, or peanuts! He gave me his ration card so I have ample amount of those supplies. Tomorrow is a half a working day and I have Liberty so we are going out to the beach and I am going to go swimming on the African shore of the Atlantic coast.

Letter to Dolores JUNE 26th THURSDAY

As planned, Currie and I went to the Beach after our half work day yesterday. The weather was too cold for swimming so we just walked the beach. After that we took the Navy Bus back into town. There was a party there and Currie and I took pictures. They had a bunch of Arabs in the main Recreation Dance room performing some of their dances, all they did was "Shake", that's all, but the fellows seemed to think it was enough. We had a good time there as we always do.
I have developed a new taste--SHRIMP--and I really like it. They put it out in bowls at the Cafe's just like Kastelic's Tavern back home puts out popcorn. They are small shrimp but delicious, and there is a cream sauce that you dip them in after they are peeled.

I am satisfied with everything here and I am getting along fine with my work. I am proud to tell you that my photographic work is improving rapidly. I may even get my 3rd Class before the 6 months are up! This evening I tried some oil painting of some pictures with a set of paints here in the Lab, it worked out pretty good. I also have been experimenting in retouching and I seem to have the talent to do that. It all helps. I guess it was lucky for me to join the Navy after all and to have asked for Photography.

Letter to Dolores JUNE 27th, FRIDAY

Another half work day to morrow. Old "Ike" as Kurri wants me to call him, and I are going out to the beach again, if the weather is nice, and maybe to Rabat on Sunday. I'll pack my camera along. The pictures I took at the Birthday Party with Ike came out real good. I printed up a whole batch of them, but all the fellows have been coming around and have walked off with almost all of them. I was able to save a set for you and the Folks though.

Letter to Dolores JUNE 28th SATURDAY

A cloudy day, no swimming--it looks like rain--can this really be Africa??? This place is really a waste land as far as entertainment goes, not much in excitement at all.

I'll be darn, the sky is clearing up! I can't figure this place out. They say we will be getting hot spells pretty soon. As long as the wind is from the general direction of the Ocean all is very cool, but as soon as the winds start coming from the Desert they say the heat is almost unbearable. I hope that I will be able to hold up under such heat.

Letter to Dolores JUNE 29th, SUNDAY

Kurri and I are going to Rabat today, my first visit to that city. The bus leaves the Base at 1:30 P.M. so I am taking this time after Chow to tell you how things went yesterday. We didn't go to the Beach because the weather wasn't quite what it should have been for swimming. We played pool at the Recreation Center in Lyautey. Neither of us play all that well so we were a good match. We spent most of our time at one of the town's Photo Studios. It was surprising to find that I know quite a bit about Photography and to discover how little equipment you need to do some portrait and printing work. The place was very small and the people that are running it are doing fairly well, but Kurri and I gave them a good check out. We showed them how to improve their lighting for their portraits and we asked them for the negatives of some pictures they had hanging on the wall to show them some better differences in the way they are printing. We gave them quite a bit of useful instruction and information. We will go back some time to see how they are doing, they really appreciated that we stopped by. We plan to visit some more photo shops in town in the future to pass the time of day away, it was fun. I was grateful that Kurri was able to act as an interpreter. It was really interesting to see how much we understood each other, although we couldn't speak each others language.

Letter to Dolores JUNE 30th, 7:45 P.M.

Hi Sweetheart, I just got the word that the mail is going out tomorrow and I have to get this out by 8 P.M.! So a few words--I had a swell time yesterday. Rabat is a fine Town, large, modern, and also has a typical Arab Market place.
Last night I played with the Orchestra again and did pretty good. All's well. This is going to be really short, they have just called on the phone and said "you better bring you mail running!!" I have already found some pretty good Buddies here!!

Letter to Dolores JULY 1st, MONDAY

The Mail Plane came in about a half an hour ago so I am patiently waiting for mail call. I am sorry I wrote such a short letter last night, but because I did, the letter should be in London by now. I took a few pictures in Rabat yesterday. It is really quite a town! It's neat and it is very modern in the French residential and main business section. Then you walk through an ancient wall and you are in the Arab section known as the "Medina" with an exciting Arab Market place. I will take pictures of it for you so that you can truly understand what it looks like. It is like a story book coming to life as you walk down the narrow crowded streets. They sell almost anything you can think of from the many shops lining those narrow streets. I must take you there some time so that you can see it for yourself.

Back here at the Lab I have a very nice office. Ike and I share a big desk, he has one side of drawers and me the other. It is a very popular place here on the Base. Everyone is looking for pictures of anything that is going on. A lot of them try to "Brown Nose" so as to get a roll of film developed and printed---so it goes. Some days they are pests, and some days I don't mind. Today I MIND! But that is because I didn't get enough sleep last night. I really like this place, it is as though I was running my own business and I like that. Tonight is Liberty and I am going to town with Ike. He and I really get along good, we had a very nice week end and are raring to go on another one, but that's two weeks away. We get Thursday and Friday off because of the Fourth of July, so we will have SOME week end. Last 4th I had a chance to play in the Great Lake's Navy band and a parade in Racine, this 4th I have a chance to take pictures at a Chiefs masked Ball. As of now I have not committed myself to that. I have to get down to the Mail Room, I am going to tell the Chief there--NO mail---NO pictures at his party!

Letter to Dolores JULY 2nd, WEDNESDAY

I had a pretty busy day, and I got in quite late last night. I haven't decided to go to the movie or to hit the sack early. Liberty tomorrow night, and all day the Fourth of July, and then the Chiefs party Saturday night. I will be worn to a frazzle by Sunday. I don't mind though, it makes time pass pretty fast and that's what counts.

PostScript In Pensacola all my letter writing took place for the most part in my Barracks and at my bunk or in the recreation room. In Morocco just about all my letter writing was done in my office in the Lab and on a typewriter. Remember that the Hangar and Air Field are on low land along a river that comes in from the Ocean which is 4 to 5 miles away. This river snakes around a high "hill" that is to the West of the Hangar and the Air Field, and between that and the Ocean. It is on top of this hill that all the living quarters of the Naval Station were. "Going up the hill" also meant going to where the Movie Theater was. Our Chow Hall was down at the Air Field just across from the East side of the Hangar. It was about a mile and a half between the Hangar and our Barracks. It was kind of exciting taking that trip because the approach to the main runway of the Air Field crossed the roadway. There were crossing gates and warning lights that came on when a plane was coming in for a landing and all traffic had to stop. It was a great place to be because at that point the in coming plane was but a couple of hundred feet from touching its wheels down. It was a thrill to be there and watch some of the BIG planes come in, B-17's, B-29's and F4RD's, and also fast fighter planes put their wheels down and land, you could just about reach out and touch them. That thrill NEVER went away in all the time I was there, and it was that way for most of us. In case my letters forget to mention it, one of the most breath taking picture assignments I had was to cover that particular area when the first B-29 ever to land at Port Lyautey came into land. It was the largest plane to land there. They knew that the Air Strip was long enough but they were not too sure the runway would hold up under the weight of the plane. I was assigned to taking pictures to record the good or the bad news. The landing went off without a hitch to everyone's relief. We would see B-29's come in regularly after that. Another incident involved the Air Strip that crossed in the other direction. On that strip the planes had to come in over the river, much like they had to come in over the roadway on the other strip. One late afternoon, just coming onto dusk, a mail plane, a NC4 (DCS, C-47) came in for a landing. Our Tower man realized that the Pilot was coming in too low and would be dropping his wheels right into the River if he kept coming in. (The Pilot would tell us later that light reflecting off the darkened river appeared to him to be a part of the black topped runway). The Tower Man yelled, PULL HER UP!!!PULL HER UP!!!PULL HER UP!! And the Pilot was able to give the heavy air craft full power just in time and was able to go back up and come around for a safe landing. I was able to take the Official pictures of that Sailor Tower Man being decorated with a hero's medal at one of the Base Inspections by our Captain.

I will probably have more to write about the river in later letters but I think it helps to have a better idea of where this all takes place and for you to have a mental picture of it now. We had a pier at the river and a fast couple of boats tied up there and always ready to go. They were similar to the famed P.T. Boat that J.F. Kennedy commanded but designed and out fitted for Air-Sea Rescue. They were not only used for Navy duty, we used them to an extent for recreation too. I am sure we will hear about that in the letters. What was very interesting to me when I got to Lyautey and began to learn the history of the World II invasion here by the U.S. I found that this was the first place the Americans put their feet on. The mouth of the river at the Ocean was attacked and after a long exchange of fire from shore an American Destroyer was finally able to move into the river and Navigate its self around a couple of scuttled freighters and make it near to where our pier was built. The first casualty on land happened here too. The Officer that tried to get on the road out side of the Air Base to drive to Rabat to seek a cease fire from the French was shot and killed near by before he could carry out his mission. The Air Base was where the first U.S. Aircraft landed, arriving from Air Craft carriers. For more details on this invasion please look in my book collection and read the "Introduction" in the book "History of U.S. STRATEGIC AIR BASES IN MOROCCO, 1951-1963 by Colonel Gerald M. Adams, U.S.A.F. Ret. Although this book is written about the Post War Phase of Morocco this introduction gives a very good capsule look at the 1940's and the time I was there. It will also give you a very good history of how the French were finally moved out of Morocco and how the Arabs took over their Country.

Letter to Dolores JULY 2nd, 1947 Con't.

Tomorrow I am going to have to break down and get a hair cut. This business of wearing "Whites" means I will have to get a couple of new jumpers and maybe a pair of pants. I should be getting my "clothing allotment" next payday so I will check at the Dispensary to see if I can get fitted.

PostScript I recall that the Navy gave this "clothing allotment" once a year. It was by no means a wind fall, it only helped out a "bit" in financing and encouraged the navy men to freshen up their wardrobe.)

Letter to Dolores JULY 3rd. THURSDAY

I am getting ready for Liberty, there is a dance tonight and I guess I will play in the orchestra for some fun. The fellows that talked me into coming here at Photo School were not kidding about the good duty, they were not handing me a line about this place. I like all the fellows and the officers, and especially my duty. I have been taking portraits lately and I am getting the knack of it pretty good. I took a portrait of one of the girls that works in the laundry and it came out so that even modest (?) me likes it. I hope that you don't mind me taking a picture of a girl now and then, it is good experience, and I get tired of, AND it breaks the monotony, of taking pictures of all these White Hats. Taking pictures has really put me in good with everyone here, Servicemen as well as the Civilians. Everyone likes pictures and who better to get them from than the Base Photographer! I get early Chow because I took the Chow Hall Master at Arms portrait, I get my mail special delivery now because I printed up some negatives for the Head Mail Clerk. I got paid before payday because I did some work for the Chief in Dispensary, I can get a ride anywhere on the base at any time from the Fire Departments Master At Arms because I made a special set of prints from Smokie's birthday party for him (the party that the Arabs danced at). And so on down the line as I do favors for friends and pals. Now you can see why a Photo Mate is sometimes known as a "Racketeer".

PostScript On this morning, February 28th, 1993, I was visiting with a very good friend Bill Moore at our Church, St. Peter's West Allis. Bill is a commercial Airline Pilot and had been a Pilot in the Navy and stationed in Pensacola Florida LONG after I was there! He too dive bombed the trains crossing the swamps east of Mobile Alabama so nothing had changed! He has been interested in some of my flying experiences. I told him about the first landing of the B-29 Bomber at Port Lyautey and how the Bomber circled the Air Field for a couple of hours to empty its fuel tanks before landing. My thought has always been that the plane was lightening the over all weight of the plane so as to prevent it from breaking through the runway. Bill asked me if the runways may have been too short for such a large plane, because that would be one reason for reducing the weight as much as they could, that would give the plane an easier chance to stop after landing. That made sense to me when I recalled the runways--the river was on the North, tight to the run way, --"the hill" tight on the West side and swinging around a bit to the South, making the landing strips short in deed for the B-29. That is why, as I wrote earlier, such a thrill to watch from the roadway crossing on the South end of the strip to see the planes drop down to land. That is also why the Pilot nearly dropped into the river one day, he was trying to use all of the landing strip possible and was trying to put the wheels down on the very first edge of the runway. I remember now that a few weeks later we had another B-29 land at our Base with more of a fuel load and there was no problem, and after that a visit from a B-29 was taken for granted. It is of further interest that two years later, 1951, (From Page 2, Chapter 1, History of U.S. Strategic Air Bases in Morocco) "an early survey in January 1951, by the recently arrived USAF (U.S. Air force) Mission determined that airfields listed in the 1950 agreement were in adequate". The agreement mentioned was between the United States and NATO ally France, signed December 22, 1950--(one year 8 months after I left Morocco in 1948), designated five air bases in "French" Morocco for the USAF to "improve and occupy". This was to prepare for the new long range Strategic Air Command Bombers ("SAC"), which were much larger than any B-29, to be based in Morocco. Already the Air Base at Port Lyautey was not mentioned as one of the five bases in this report, there was no way to extend the runways. The interest was for the prospect of American Bombers to operate from French Morocco and thus be capable of reaching targets in Eastern Europe and Asia, "which introduced a new dimension to the Cold War equation". "Air bases in French Morocco would be an air defense asset for the Mediterranean Seaway, Europe's Southern flank and the Middle East's Western flank". From these new bases that were built in Morocco between 1951 and 1953, it would take from 1954 to 1956 to completely get four of the bases operational. Here was another interesting occurrence. My Cousin Bob Goergen from Virginia, Minnesota came to live with my Folks and me in West Allis in 1948 after he was discharged from the Service. We shared my bed room as he tried to get settled into civilian life. He became very interested in my "tales" about my experiences in Morocco, and when he heard that there was a call out for heavy construction equipment operators to work in Morocco in 1951, he jumped at the chance and went there to operate one of the big "earth movers" and helped build these new Air Bases. He was also impressed by the country and its people. Dolores and I had befriended a College student, Claire Lugassy, here at U.W. Milwaukee after we were married. We had seen her picture in the Milwaukee Journal telling about her coming here from Casablanca. We became a family away from home to her until she graduated and returned to Casablanca. When Bob was there he visited her and her family at their home. Her family was Jewish and after the Arabs regained control of their country the Lugassy family all moved to Milwaukee. Claire married a Milwaukee boy and her Father became a teacher in the Milwaukee School system.

Because of the rapidly changing times, Air Missiles and modern technological advancements these bases would be abandoned by December 1962. The phase out had begun earlier that year but was put on hold October 22, 1962 when the "Cuban Missile Crisis" surfaced. When that was settled by President John F, Kennedy, the closing of the SAC bases continued. In December 1962 American Personal in Morocco totaled 9,851. During the time talked about here more than 100,000 Americans served during those 13 years, Armed Forces, their families, civilians and construction workers like my cousin Bob. The Bombers used by SAC were the B-29, B-50, B-36, and the Boeing B-47.)

Letter to Dolores JULY 4th, 1947 FRIDAY

I just returned from Rabat, I got the word that 3 cent mail came in today and that I had a package at Operations.

PostScript In 1947 Air Mail meant Air Mail, it had a separate stamp and rate and had the quickest delivery time in Morocco as it did in Pensacola. "Regular postage" was with a 3 cent stamp and that mail went by whatever means was available wherever the letter happened to be. Dolores and I learned that regular posted letters and packages could end up taking a boat ride of a week and a half or more on its way to Morocco before getting to an air delivery from England via our Navy Air Craft. When word went out that "3 Cent Mail is in!" it usually meant long awaited packages would hopefully show up.)

Letter to Dolores JULY 4th, 1947 Con't. I went right down to the Hangar to see if it was true, and there was the box with your familiar hand writing! It kind of made the day a little more like the 4th, I thank you, and I love you!

Everything came in good shape, I don't believe the chocolates even melted. I hope that you don't mind,----even though you ask that I do---that I don't tell you what to send me, because I always think of the package as a surprise. Even if it is the same thing each time, as long as it is something you sent because you thought that it would please me, I can't tell you how much I appreciate it.

This 4th of July wasn't as lost as the last 4th when I was at the Lakes. Ike and I went to Rabat and all the stores were opened---remember it is a U.S. holiday and not one over here! We enjoyed window shopping. It is really something to find everything so modern here in one part of town and then walk into the Medina (Arab Market) and see what you would picture ancient Africa to be and look like. NEXT 4th of July you and I are going to Waukesha Beach! UNLESS there are Races some where. We will end up at State Fair Park for the evening fireworks.

I will have to muster to morrow morning for the Duty Week End. I wish that you were waiting for me up on "the Hill" in person instead of just in my dreams. I've been here 3 weeks already and in another I'll have but 11 months of my enlistment to go.

Letter to Dolores JULY 6th, SUNDAY

I missed writing to you yesterday, I caught up with all the others that I have owed letters to. I did print up a roll of film I took in Rabat for you and I will mail them with this letter. The one with the little girl at the fountain is my favorite one.
I am going to a French Movie tomorrow in Rabat, I won't be able to understand it but Ike says it should be fun and interesting to me. In Rabat they have American Movies playing and they have the French written beneath the picture while it goes on just as in the States. That works out pretty good for us Americans. The picture "Week End At The Waldorf" is playing there now. They finally had a picture at the Base that I had not seen, so I went to a movie here for a change. Speaking of change, it is raining out, seems good to have that fresh smell in the air. My Portrait work is progressing very well. I have been doing all I can so I will be acquainted with that when I get out of here.

Letter to Dolores JULY 7th, MONDAY

I just had a little trouble with old Ike about some printing that I was doing and I am pretty P.O.ed! I thought that I would take a break and cool off a bit. You know I seldom get mad and when I do there is hell to pay! I have been printing all day for our Photographic Officer and I guess I am a little bit on edge and nervous. I have Liberty tonight so I will be O.K. by that time I am sure.

Today has been real cool and the sun has been no where to be found, but I appreciate this bit of cold weather.
I have thought that this wouldn't be such a bad place for Duty if we were married and lived on the Base like a quite a few of the married guys do. I could see signing over as far as everything has gone so far to this day. I guess I couldn't see you doing that---and I can't really see myself staying in the Navy. Just look for me to come home next spring.
They are closing the Recreation Center in town for repairs, so that ends my playing in the Orchestra for a month or two. We have a club house out at the beach where we will spend our time when on Liberty. I will hate to see the Center close because they have a pretty good Chow there, and it is a nice place to hang out. Also it is the only place you can buy Pepsi-Cola.

PostScrip Coca Cola was a world wide company and was a product that you could get no matter where you traveled. Pepsi-Cola was not, and the only place you could get a Pepsi was at a U.S.A. Service Center. I would have been a good one to have started Ray Charles advertising for Pepsi---"YOU'VE GOT THE RIGHT ONE BABY--UN-HUH----UN-HUH---!!)
I saw an old Monte Cristo movie last night, "Beauty And The Bandit". The next two nights they have the "Joe Palooka" movie. I am lucky as it is one that I haven't seen. Maybe they are finally catching up to me.

Letter to Dolores JULY 8th WEDNESDAY

A British Mosquito Bomber that crashed here a few days ago is on the Air Field apron right outside my window across from the Lab. They have sent a work crew of "Limmies" down from England to put it together and get it in the air again. I have taken some pictures of it and the crew hard at work.

Letter to Dolores JULY 9th, 11:55 P.M. THURSDAY

I'll bet that you thought that I wasn't going to write to you today, didn't you? Well I fooled you by 5 minutes! The fellows were saying that they wished that they had the Liberty this evening and I just happened to bet that I could catch the 8 o'clock Beach Bus and go to the dance. I was bet about 1500 francs that I couldn't do it. Ike has some faith in me and said that he would take half of the bets with me. Well, you know how I can manage to talk myself into this and that, anyway at 8 o'clock I caught the bus to the Beach and tomorrow Ike and I collect that 1500 francs! Now you must know that I did not rate Liberty, the fellows knew this and that is why they didn't think that I could get myself legally off the base. What I did after a bit of thought and consideration was to call the "Officer of the Day" and asked him if he would pass me through the Gate on the Beach Bus with my camera and gear because I wanted to record the first dance of the season out at the Beach Club. That was why I made the bet because I thought it was a sure thing he would let me go. Right from the first he gave me a hard time and told me I would have to get permission from the Executive Officer, who had just become my Photographic Officer. That made it a little tough because I had met him but once. Because he knew him I wanted Currie to ask him permission for me on the phone, but the guys thought they had me and said I was to do all the talking or I owed them. Well I started out to try and reach the "Exec" at about 4:45 P.M. and didn't get to him until 7:30 P.M.! I knew from what I had told the O.D. (Officer if the Day) that I would have to say a little more than I had to him. I came up with a good idea and asked if it wouldn't be at all possible for me to take pictures at the first dance at the Beach Club, that I was a little "weak" in covering Social Events" and that this would give me a pretty good opportunity to get myself checked out. I could try different shots and so forth, and if I fouled up any where it could be added up to experience, and then when the real call to an occasion came up I would be fairly well set up to go. When I finally gave him a chance to say something he said it was a very good idea and that if I wanted transportation to go ahead and take HIS JEEP! I was going to jump at that and then I knew the fellows would hold me to the BUS so I had to say "No thank you Sir, the Beach Bus will just do me fine."

As soon as I got away from him I got out my "Ready Camera", got a lift up "the Hill" and in 15 minutes I was shaved and into my Liberty whites, and at 8 sharp I was on the Bus!

I had a good time and it WAS good experience, and I took some pictures so as to please the Exec so that I could show him that I did what I had said I would. I came to the Lab as soon as I came in from the Beach Club and developed the film and now I will be able to show him how I made out first thing in the morning. All the shots came out perfect except one out of 8, not a bad night's work.

The film will be ready to hang up and dry in 6 minutes and then I will hit the sack in hopes that there are no accidents to cover the rest of the night…so that I will not be too tired tomorrow. The first thing I will do is razz the fellows that doubted me and to cheer Ike for sticking by me.

Letter to Dolores JULY 14th, 1947 MONDAY

There has been a missing of letter writing for a few days. I shouldn't be neglecting you but the time is passing by fast. I worked late into the night on Friday on Party pictures that I took Thursday night and I left no energy for writing. I did pick up on writing a number of Pals that I was behind on answering off and on through the work day. Then on Saturday morning I developed film until time to secure and then Ike and I headed for the Beach. We enjoyed that and then came back to the Base for Chow. After that we boarded a special bus that took a gang of us fellows to a farewell party that we threw for an Officer who is going back to the States this week. (This would have been Commander Roberts, an Officer that enjoyed being one of "the Boys" with the enlisted men. Everyone really liked and looked up to him.) It cost $4 but it was worth it. I took my own camera along rather than the Speed Graphic. I sure got some beautiful shots with it. They had American Liquor and it went over big, it can not be bought around here except on the Black Market and many Officers will bring their own private stock from the States making it a rare treat. We had a big feed, steak, French fries, tomatoes, peas, and all the wine we wanted. We also had Pepsi-Cola, Toddy, and ice water to drink. For desert we had fresh grapes and muskmelon. There was a lot of other food that I just can't remember. I took pictures from the lowly White Hats right on up to the Captain himself.

Sunday Ike and I went to Lyautey early and had a lot of fun as always doing nothing. We hung around town, window shopped, visited with the gang at a couple of different Cafes and then headed on to Rabat. We bummed around there, too, we enjoyed finding some French ice-cream and some delicious bakery. Towards evening we headed back to Lyautey and then went to the Beach Club where they had a regular Sunday night dance. Ike doesn't dance either, and we enjoyed joining the fellows in some discussions of the day.

PostScript A couple of things come to mind here in 1994 in my second rewrite of these letters. One is that the memory still lives about the large juicy fresh fruit in the Moroccan markets. Like Dolores says, it was picked at its ripest and sold the same day. The French ice-cream was more to the "icy" side because of the lack of the use of rich cream. We were also warned not to drink or eat milk products that had not been "heated" or cooked". At times I couldn't resist, but I remember some mean stomach cramps when I did. I recall that it was great sport for a group of the Sailors to gather and have open discussions on a specific topic. It was the "older" White Hats that usually got it started and it made for some very intelligent and interesting evenings. It stays in my mind because this didn't happen in any of the other Stations I had been at. There were times that French Military men would join us, even some from the French Foreign Legion. It wasn't all the time but it could happen in town in a cafe or back in the Barracks in the evening. It was something that I thought was unusual and a compliment to the mentality of that group of young men. Think again if you doubt that there wasn't something special about French Bakery and pastries! The display cases were always works of beauty and they tasted three times as good.

While I am typing here in the Lab a few buddies have come in to look over my Photo collection, I hope that all of you at home will enjoy it half as much as the fellows do here on the Base. They really like the pictures of New York and D.C., probably because they have been out of the States for so long. These guys are giving me a hard time and they want me to shove off to the movies with them. Guess which one---Danny Kaye in "The Kid From Brooklyn". Yea man, I am in my Glory! I know if I were home you would rather not see it--so I will close and let you read a book this evening, and I owe you a big letter next the time I write. Mail should be in tomorrow!

Letter to Dolores JULY 15th, TUESDAY

I sure had a time trying to write yesterday with that gang here! The Danny Kaye movie was as good as if I hadn't seen it before.

I was still busy printing party pictures from out at the Beach Club Thursday night. You see, when we take pictures we have to make a set for everyone that was there from the best negatives. Then we had a farewell party for the Officer at the Horse Race Track Restaurant Saturday, and I also had to print up those pictures. Yesterday was only a half working day because it was the "French 4th of July" the 14th--Bastille Day. Even so I worked straight through until I wrote the letter to you last night.

The weather remains quite nice, we haven't had a hot day since I have been here. It is strange that you should write letters of how you are suffering with the heat back home, and after how everyone back there had been razzing me about the heat I would find here. I find it to be exactly like the Chiefs at Pensacola--that WERE here before and told me how great it would be---good duty, fair Liberty, and for the most part good weather. I'm satisfied.

Letter to Dolores JULY 16th, WEDNESDAY

The Army is leaving this place altogether, and by Saturday they expect to be completely moved to Germany. No telling what the Navy will do. We understand that the Russians think we have too big of a hold here. The Russians want a part of the French Moroccan Base Sites, but the French don't want them in. We think that the Army being moved out is a National compromise.

Letter to Dolores JULY 17th, THURSDAY

The day is warm and a cool breeze is blowing a lot of beautiful white clouds up in the sky from out in the Ocean making the day a most perfect one. Last night, when I left the Lab to head up "the Hill", a million stars were out, but the moon was somewhere else, I hoped that he was on his way to see you!

Letter to Dolores JULY 18th, FRIDAY

13 months in the Navy finished today! Last night in town was a different one for me, it is the first time I got into a fist fight. I and another fellow tried to break up a fight between two other guys that were a bit drunk and fighting pretty rough. Then a Soldier told us to leave them alone and socked my buddy Smokey. I couldn't see that as being right so I in turn took a swing at the "Doggie" (U.S. Army Soldier), and when we went to town on each other Smoky wanted me to lay off so he could fight him. Another Doggie thought that we were ganging up on this other boy and he started in on Smokey. Then some of "our boys", Ike, Willie, and Silvers tried to break it all up and pretty soon they were all in it plus a couple of more Doggies. I thought that it was a lot of fun last night, but I got an awful sore face and body today, and I should have a colored shot taken of my pretty blue eye! At least I have all of my teeth. How was the fight broken up? Someone shouted "SHORE PATROL!!!" and when we saw "the Wagon" coming we all ran off like mad in different directions. What happened to the two fellows that were fighting? When all of us fellows regrouped after knowing the Shore Patrol had gone back to their Duty Station we drifted back to the Bar once again. And guess what---there were the two fellows sitting at the Bar with their arms around each other laughing at the rest of us! So it goes.
I am waiting until 6 and then a few of us are going into town. The Army is pretty well gone and by tomorrow I believe they will be all out. This will be U.S. Sailor and French Navy country and territory from now on. The guys are cheering that there will be more women to go around now.

JULY 20th, SUNDAY

Last night I took a long walk out on the Beach. I walked all the way out to the end of the first break water just as the sun was going down, it was very pretty. It was good to be by myself for awhile, and I was able to imagine you at my side. I watched the sun sink into the Atlantic Ocean and there was just a ghost of a moon, hardly enough to see it, but enough to send my love to you, and ask him to keep an eye out for your care.

It is quite a feeling to walk along the Ocean Beach and be all alone, seeing absolutely no one in any direction, and know that on the other side is the United States. It makes one feel so very small, and yet with the surf rolling in it is a grand feeling to have seen the sun set and the evening slowly become dark. When I got back to the Beach Club I met some of the fellows and we got into a HOT argument about racial prejudice. There were three against it and one fellow for it. We were getting pretty hot on it until we finally decided we had better change the subject and forget about it. We caught the next Base Bus back to town and we started singing the old songs really good. Another fellow had joined us and by then and we all sang without getting too loud, which usually happens. We got to town and went to our favorite hang out, the Lux Bar, and we continued to sing at our table out on the sidewalk. Others came by and joined us and we soon had a really beautiful chorus. We sang until the last bus came through, and we sang all the way back to the Base, and on to our Barracks. There hasn't ever been a sweeter night together in the Navy, we were all together as one happy family, singing the old songs, each of us, I am sure, putting memories of home on each of them. Many times this gets started when a certain bunch has a bit too much to drink, but this time it started in a mellow way, and lasted all evening in good and great comradeship. It may never happen again in such a nice way, and I was happy that I was a part of it. It seems strange that it got its start by three of us trying to talk some sense into one guy that doesn't think he can get along with anyone that isn't white. It would be nice if all of the world could get along as we did last night.

I sacked out until 8:30 and then came down to the Lab to get some of the fellows film printed and to write you a letter. I am waiting for Ike to come down the Hill and then we will go to Chow. (He thinks I am nuts for catering to the guys and taking care of their personal films!) I hear they are having ICE CREAM TODAY!!! I haven't had a taste of fresh milk since the third or fourth day out at Sea on the Canisteo. I sure am craving for it since then. They do not get any fresh milk here because they do not have the pasteurization or health standards in town to make it possible and safe. There are no Dairy farms here like back home in the States to even provide milk products needed by civilians. What we have is powdered milk. It is mixed in a big machine they call "the Cow", but that milk is too sweet for me and I can't drink it. You know I could live on milk, so you know that this is quite an adjustment for me. We do get Toddy at the Ships Stores so that helps out a little.

Toddy was a milk based, canned, chocolate drink. It had to be refrigerated to have it last in storage, and if you didn't have a place to store it you had to drink it as soon as it was purchased. Because it was rationed it was a scarce item at times, and the occasional buyer could be out of luck because of this. Well---the Photo Lab had a very large refrigerator, much like a large deep freeze chest, to keep our film and printing supplies stored in. Guess where our full rations of Toddy were kept for our ever convenient use? This was a long time before canned soda and beer, which was dispensed only in glass bottles at that time. Perhaps some one in the industry got the clue to the use of cans from that product!)

JULY 21st, MONDAY

I developed and printed shots that I took this morning of a stork one of the Boy's caught. It has a busted leg and they have splinted it and wrapped it. They will keep it caged until it is O.K. and can walk and fly on its own once again. There are Storks all over Morocco, their nests are a common sight. I am waiting for the prints to wash, then I will put them through the dryer and head on up the Hill.

I didn't go out to the Beach Club until late last night, and then I was back by 10 o'clock. There was a crowd at the dance, but I didn't feel in the mood for any visiting so I came back and hit the sack early.

Today I had to take pictures of all the dogs on the Base so as to have them registered. I am surprised at the number of them and it was really a job. It was fun and a change of pace from the usual developing and printing. I also worked on some accident shots I took of a car and a motorcycle accident, a bunch of passport pictures, I finished just at lunch time and I was very pleased with my morning. THEN I noticed that the prints had turned "PINK" and discovered too late that the hypo had become exhausted- the prints were spoiled--soooooooo tomorrow, besides all the dog pictures, I have all this mornings printing to do over again! So it goes.

Letter to Dolores JULY 22nd, TUESDAY

It was a busy morning catching up with yesterday's disaster with the Hypo. I have been working on Passport pictures of the married Soldiers and their Wives, they are the last to leave here for Germany. It is quite a job because it is a rush job, they found out late that they would be needing passports to be able to find housing off the Bases in Germany. STILL NO HOT WEATHER!! The weathermen on the Base say they don't believe the "Siroccos" will come this way this season, then who can believe a weatherman. Personally I hope they don't come, I am satisfied as it is now. (The Sirocco is the hot desert winds that come out of the central desert section of Africa.)

Letter to Dolores JULY 22nd, TUESDAY

- You speak of the French girls here quite often and warn me about them, and I know that you are teasing me. For the most part all the girls that are interested in a relationship have "steadies", and then there are others that are just enjoying a night out and are brought to the Recreation Center or Beach Club by Organizations that bring them Chaperoned for the dances. They are not allowed to "date", or get serious with any U.S. Serviceman. If they do, the ones from Rabat can no longer take the Navy Service Bus to any of the Services dances here. As I have said before, a married man, or one engaged is discovered quickly and it seems that kind of status gives you a more "friendly" association with the girls. They come to enjoy a good night out, to try out their English, hear U.S. music, learn and dance American style, and feel less threatened than by the wild single ones that are too often after more than a friendly evening!

Letter to Dolores JULY 25th, FRIDAY

Three of us fellows and one of the fellow's wives shoved off for the Wedding yesterday morning at 8:45 A.M. and went to the home of the Bride in Port Lyautey. The fellow that got married was Curnen. He was nervous as all heck and worried about getting to the church on time, trying to get his Bride to be and his future Mother-in-law to stop decorating the tables we were to use for the reception dinner later on. But we got to the Municipal Building on time and without any problem.

Here, the couple must get married by the State first. After that they went to the beautiful Catholic Church in Port Lyautey. I took flash pictures inside the church right at the altar during the ceremony. The Priest looks like he is 80 years old or more, and has a beautiful long white beard. I went to the altar so that I could take the shots of the best man giving the rings to Curnen. The Bride told me that no one had ever taken pictures inside the Church before, and when the flash went off the poor old Priest jumped a mile high and for a minute I feared that he would die of a heart attack! I took pictures of them coming down the aisle on their way out too. I took pictures during the State Service too, and at the Cafe where we went for our Appetizer before going on to the house for the reception dinner.

The dinner was excellent. The first course was ham, tuna, tomatoes, and muskmelon. Then came steak, potatoes, peas, gravy, and some things that I did not know what they were---BUT they were GOOD. After that we had chicken and French fries. The food just kept on coming like that until I thought I would bust! It was the first good meal--I mean MEALS!- since I was home on leave---and I couldn't help that I ate so much. We had wine to drink, and Champagne too. Desert was another meal in its self, and there was fruit galore. I was even given a bushel basket full to take back to the Barracks.

I "souped" the film as soon as I got back here because I could not have rested until I knew how it came out. (MARCH 1993--I see that I felt that way from the first wedding I covered right up to the last!) I headed right back here from the Wedding feast and told the couple to stop by the Lab later in the day when they had a chance to check on me and the film, and that I would take a portrait of them in the Studio. When they arrived I had all the film developed and they were excited to see their own Wedding on film in a matter of hours after the ceremony.

After I took their portraits I took off up the Hill and took a shower and changed into a clean pair of whites and headed into town where some of the departing Army boys were throwing a farewell party. Everything was free, sandwiches, potato salad, pickles, boiled eggs, and more. Drinks were all free too and I had my fill of Pepsi-Cola. There was a dance and the old Rec Hall was packed. Everyone had a grand time and it didn't break up until three in the morning! Then I learned some of the fellows got a bar to open up and they stayed there until 7:30 A.M.! I came back to the Base at 2 A.M. and MAN I was full to the gills!!! I never ate so much in my life in one day! I never spent a cent except for a French ice cream in one of the Cafes for a little change in deserts.

Letter to Dolores JULY 27th, SUNDAY

I went to Rabat yesterday and had a very good time. I went to see the Sultan's Palace and to walk through the gardens. It was all very pretty. I spent the whole afternoon going through the flowered parks. In the evening I went to what has become my favorite Restaurant, all of the guys on the Base go there, and had a delicious steak dinner. Then I went to the big French Movie House and saw a double feature, "Salutas Amigos" and "Enchanted Cottage". I enjoyed them both, they were in French, but the fact that I had seen them once before in the States it was fun to see them with different voices and speaking French.

I met up with some of the gang and we took the last Navy Bus back to the Base together. The Bus leaves from the Shore Patrol building in Rabat, and their Office is always a nice meeting place for everyone. I slept until late this morning, and I am letting my noon Chow settle before I head up the Hill for a shower. If I have the ambition I may head out to the Beach Club for a while tonight. The Bus stops right at our Barracks door and drops us off right at the Beach Club, so it doesn't take too much of an effort to go. There is nothing on the Base for diversion like we had at Pensacola, so you can get pretty bored here at times. Just the bus ride along the Ocean is worth making the round trip.

PostScript The "Beach Club" was very unique, it was a thatched covered building, very typical to how Arab tribal huts in the interior of Morocco were built. It looked and felt very African when you were there. It was built on the top of a hill over looking the Atlantic Ocean which had a great view. Because the Ocean was to the West the sun sets were most beautiful. It was Navy owned and operated and only for Navy personal, just like the Rec Center in town. Civilians were not allowed in to the Clubs unless they were pre registered and approved guests. This meant that Sailors could not bring in a girl friend unless she had the guest credentials.)

Letter to Dolores JULY 29th, TUESDAY

I finished the Wedding pictures and gave them to Carl this morning. Then today I started the special picture project on the Base and it has been quite a challenge. Today it involved 36 shots and I got what I wanted, all are sharp and clear. There were a lot of flash shots and I used a bundle of flash bulbs. There will be a lot of outside shots tomorrow, and I will have to plan my day so that I get the sun at the right angle to get it all done.

PostScript I remember this as a "Classified" project at the Radio Communications buildings and I had to take pictures inside and out. They were ordered by and passed on to the U.S. Navy Bureau in D.C. All the shots that I took, good and bad, negatives and prints, had to be placed in envelopes and turned into the Operations Officer, no questions asked. Note that "flash bulbs" are being used. 1947 was still a few years away from a usable and dependable electronic battery flash unit. The flash bulb that I used on that project would have been a No.22 which was about the size of a 100 watt light bulb. More common was a much smaller one called #5 or a #25, so know that the 22 packed a heck of a lot of LIGHT! With the United States within about 6 months from returning the Air Base to the French and the Army having just pulled out I imagine that the pictures I took were the beginning of an inventory and for a "good look" at the equipment that was in that communication center. This was the main land based communication station in all of Africa and no doubt held the most up to date equipment available.

Remembering those large No.22 flash bulbs brings back an amusing incident that may not have been all that funny to Jerry (me) at the time it happened and it may not be in the letters, so I will tell it here. On one of my night assignments to cover an accident on the road from Port Lyautey to the Base I ran into a bit of a problem with the main flash gun on the Speed Graphic. A Sailor, a bit on the tipsy side, had been driving his motorcycle back to the Base from town a little too fast and drove right, square into the back end of a Horse Taxi Carriage. He split it in half, fortunately the driver and the horse were not injured. I was up on the Hill when I got the call and I had to jump into the Jeep, stop off at the Lab at the Hangar to get my "ready case" and then drive to the scene. Nothing could be moved from an accident scene until official photos were taken so to have picture evidence when it came time to deal with the civilian government. The Officer in charge at the scene was upset that I had taken so long to arrive and told me to hurry it up so that they could clear the road and get the heck out of there. When I went to take the first picture the flash didn't go off. The Officer came over, not aware of my problem and commanded "get in gear Zimmerman!!" I turned the camera around to face me to check the camera and flash hook up as best I could in the light of his hand held flash light, I tripped the shutter and "BAMB!!" the flash went right off into my face! The Officer booted me in the rear end and said "quit horsing around and get busy!!" I knew I had better get on the move and I rose up, but I had been temporarily blinded by the brightness of the flash and I staggered a bit before I could see well enough to find my ready case to get a fresh flash bulb. I did get the pictures taken and they came out O.K. and I never heard anything again about that night from the Officer. I know that his impatience was to get back to his hot cup of coffee in the O.D.'s Office!)

Letter to Dolores JULY 29th, Con't

Ike is going to Rome and France on a flight these next three days, it was to be my flight but I got tangled up with this picture assigment here. I felt I had better finish this first and told Ike to take my place. It kind of hurt to pass up that trip, but I will have more opportunities for that than Ike, if he doesn't go this time he will be in the States when the next trip comes up.

A "Draft" for the States is leaving the 11th of August, there are a number of happy boys around here---well---what the heck I'll have that happen to me in about 8 months after that.

I was glad to have you write that you were not bothered by me taking portraits of some of the girls that work here on the Base, I am through with that phase of photography. Now my time is spent taking pictures at parties, weddings, and I am super busy taking I.D. pictures of ALL the French Navy Personal that is moving in and piling up. They are taking over the former Army quarters that are empty now.

Yesterday the Army gave a real show. The last four B-17's that were stationed here pulled out and for a full 15 minutes they buzzed the field and crossed over the Hangar, so low that if they were to have let their wheels down they would have had to gain about 4 feet of altitude! I had to say good-bye to some swell buddies. The Army Captain was a young man and he always came to the Lab so that I could check him out on printing and developing, and he was beginning to do real good. What I couldn't get use to was when he would take my prints out of the washer and put them through the dryer for me. I always told him that I sure couldn't get use to a Captain working for me like a "striker"! He would always tell me that as long as he was in the Lab he was the lowest rated man there, and he worked for me. All the Army boys were that way, all easy to get along with. That's the trouble with the Service, you make so many friends and then you have to say good bye, and you know that you will probably never see one another again. All of us Navy personal were out of the hangar and watching the 17's make the runs on us, it was very thrilling and we knew that it was their special way of saying farewell to us all. Then they headed North East and up into the sky headed on their way to Germany and disappeared. We all headed back to our stations and we didn't dare look into each other's faces, it wouldn't have been very manly to have seen the tears in each other's eyes.

Letter to Dolores JULY 31st, 1947, THURSDAY

Today has been awfully warm, the first "too warm" day I have experienced, and yet it isn't "too" hot. I spent the morning taking more of the Official Pictures and a fellow from Personal went with me to point out some specific shots that were needed. When we finished what had to be done and I was sure I had what he was after I had some film left over and I suggested we take some shots of each other. There is a great big Palm tree near the North Air Strip and we posed each other under it. Then I set up a self timer to let the camera take a picture of us together. I set the camera up on the tripod and then tripped the timer. I had but 10 seconds to run to the tree and Jenkins before the shutter clicked. We wondered what the guys up in the Hangar Control Tower were thinking if they happened to be watching.

Letter to Dolores AUGUST 2nd, 1947, FRIDAY

It was a busy work day yesterday and I was working hard late into the evening until I decided I had to take a break. I finally headed out to the Beach Club. Out there I met a fellow that is a Naval Correspondent and is in town writing a story about us fellows and the Base. I did some picture work for him all day today, from the time the Captains Inspection was over. I am making a bunch of prints for him of the Base (Robert C. Ruark) and it became more of a job than I had expected. I spent a good part of the night talking to him.

Lyles and I flipped a coin to see which one of us would take pictures of the Inspection, and I got the low end of that, so I have another job on my hands. It does give me another chance to show my stuff and that's good, it is getting close to the time to ask to go up in my rate. I have developed all of the Inspection shots and they have come out good.
I will have Wednesday off and I may go to walk the Sultans Gardens and take some pictures, if it is a sunny day. I want to take some in color, I found some rolls here in the Lab's supply room. The gardens are larger and more beautiful than Mitchell Park back home.

A surprise here, all of a sudden we are getting paid in American Dollars. They surprised us and called in all of the "Script" money we had. This let all the Black Marketers in town get stuck with all of the Script money they are holding. All that they have now is unredeemable and it leaves many of them holding quite a bag full of worthless money.

Letter to Dolores AUGUST 5th, TUESDAY--PAY DAY

--- I was able to get mail out on a special flight to London last night so you should have an early mail call. We hope to receive mail here today too. I hope that I get it all at once instead of a letter here and there through out the week. There must be a better way to sort out our mail from all of the Fleet Mail. The mail just gets dumped into bags for all of this Mediterranean area and then it first gets sorted here before our Base flies it out to all the ships at Sea. When you consider all the ships in this large area, from here to the Suez Canal, plus all the Embassy and Military Attaché mail, and that it comes here unsorted I guess they have their hands full. The Postmen don't want to hold our mail back and keep putting it out as they come across it. We could wait until they tell us it is all sorted but that would be impossible. The weather continues to be beautiful, not the African weather that I had always imagined, thank the Lord!

Letter to Dolores AUGUST 8th, FRIDAY

A new SNJ plane came in today. I and Commander Phelps will fly together in it to give it a check out. It has a faster engine than the ones I flew in at Pensy. Carl Duren and his wife left for the States via London this morning. I will miss another friend.

Letter to Dolores AUGUST 11th, MONDAY

Two days without writing, so this is to make up for it. After I wrote the letter to you Friday I was invited to go along for a Crash Boat ride out of the river and into the Ocean. I was told that some of the fellows were going to ride the surf board so I grabbed the camera and took off. The boat is a fast one and is used as an emergency rescue boat in case a plane would go down over water.

We went right out into the "Open Ocean", all of us had to wear life vests and there was quite a roll. Smokey was the first to go and he got on the board and was doing pretty good for awhile and then crashed and fell off. We went back to get him and the rope on the surf board broke. We got to Smokey to pick him up and then Rock jumped into the "drink" after the board. The water was getting very rough so we really had a hard time picking Rock back up and when we finally dragged him aboard he was just about dead. Commander Phelps wanted a ride, but decided not to do it in the open Ocean and we went back into the river. He got on the board and had a very nice ride. Then one of the Army boys who had come along with us, one of a few that have stayed on here to keep the Army in contact with the Base, tried it. He is a "fat" guy and Mr. Phelps is a bit on the heavy side himself, and they tried to ride the Board together. They didn't quite get it balanced out and they really took a tumble. Mr. Phelps was tired so he came aboard and the Army boy went for a ride by himself. The Coxswain gave him the works, but he stayed on the board. When he had enough another Army boy went out and took over. He KNEW his stuff and put on quite a show. Then another Army boy went out to join him and they both rode the Board all the way into the Dock.

It was 6 P.M. when we got in and the Chow Hall had closed at 5:30. Mr. Phelps got the Hall open and got us all chow and let us eat in our dungarees. We had a great time and then the gang came over to the Lab and I developed the film. The shots all came out good and after everyone was satisfied we shoved off for the late Movie.

I went to Rabat Saturday without my camera for once and did some sight seeing. It gave me an opportunity to get an idea what I want to shoot of the town and I will take my camera next week and shoot the place up. There is a hilly area just outside of Rabat its self, just beyond the ancient wall that surrounds the city. The road that leads to that area from town goes through the rich French district and some of the places beat the mansions along Lake Michigan in Milwaukee. The drive is named the "President Roosevelt Drive". At the top of the hill the drive takes a turn and, from there, a trail winds down a steep hill to the valley below. Bamboo trees line a path which leads you to many "troughs" that are dug along the rivers edge. These are also lined with bamboo trees that are there to hold the earth in place. Horses are tied to horizontal poles and then walk in circles, turning big wheels that have clay vases tied to them. As the wheel turns the vases pick up the salt water from the river, and then, dumps the salt water into the troughs, and in turn the water is channeled to the large, lined "beds". In those beds the water evaporates and after that happens, the Arabs come in and rake up the salt that remains. It is hard to believe that this is going on today in what we Americans think is a modern world!

At the bottom of a steep cliff, down at the rivers edge, is a really nice secluded cafe. I will have to have a lot of film when I go back to take pictures.

I went to the Cafe in town and had a big meal of pork and French fries, ice cream for desert. The cost of the meal was 190 francs, and with the exchange of 240 to the dollar it was a pretty cheap meal.

I went to the French movie theater in the evening and saw "Love Letters", again it was in French but because I had seen it before I was able to understand the story. From there I went to the Shore Patrol Station to wait for the bus and was told that the bus would be late so I went to the corner bar. There I met buddies Willie, Silvers, and a few others. We watched the people dance and we visited until the place closed. We went back to the station and told stories until the bus finally came. I stretched across two seats and slept all the way back to the Base. Sunday I was up fairly early and hung around the Barracks until time for Chow. It was a good one, chicken and all the trimmings, plus chocolate ice cream.

I went to town with Silvers and we went to the Lux Bar and gabbed with the fellows gathered there. Later I went to the Bakery shop and bought a bag of sweets. They really know how to make bakery here! Then I went back to the Lux and bought a lot of fruit, a small bottle of wine and I had a feast for a king!

In the evening I went out to the Beach Club and then I went with Silvers and a fellow that left for the States this morning to one of the Cafes out there for supper. We all had steaks with all the trimmings. For desert we had a French desert, it is like whipped cream, almost, and it sure was good. The way you are served a meal here you must plan on 2 hours at least for eating. It makes for a good time.

"Public Works" gave me a call today and I had to take some pictures of the "Mechanical Cow", the machine that coverts powdered milk. They have some problems and we can't get powdered milk until they can get some quick replacement parts, it is the only way the powdered milk can be made into the right kind of liquid. I had to take pictures of the areas that they believe are giving them the problem so that it can be flown back to the States on the next plane.

Letter to Dolores AUGUST 12th, TUESDAY

I am surprised to hear about your hot weather back home, as it stays beautiful here. It is, I am told, a freak summer here, but that is O.K. with me, I am not disappointed one bit. They say the winters here are pretty bad, cold rainy, doesn't sound so good, sounds like Pensacola!

PostScript A look at a World Map will inform you that Port Lyautey and Pensacola are very close to being on the same Longitude lines. Pensacola is at about 31 degrees, and Port Lyautey at about 36 degrees. Port Lyautey is about 200 miles further north, more in line with Atlanta Ga. This will help you realize why the weather was not what the casual observer would associate with the Africa we think about most of the time---hot deserts and tropical jungles. Morocco is truly the very top of Africa, and Africa is a lot farther North than most of us realize.) I have seen only one rain shower since I have been here, and how refreshing that was, otherwise nothing but blue skies and beautiful fleecy clouds.
Ah YES---Laundry! We have a laundry and it does a pretty good job, and a few of us (like Photographers) manage to get it back pretty fast, in a day or two. Then sometimes they foul up and I have to wash and press Whites for a Liberty, like I had to do this weekend. I checked with my girls and the laundry I handed in yesterday will be ready tomorrow morning!

Letter to Dolores AUGUST 16th, SATURDAY

Thursday evening I went on Liberty, last night I stayed on the Base, and I was hot to go on week end Liberty. I wasn't scheduled so I put in for a special request and at 12 noon I will rate the rest of the week end. I will catch the 1:30 Base Bus to Rabat.

PostScript There were two civilian transportations to travel between Port Lyautey and Rabat. The train was the better of the two but the schedule and in frequency made them very inconvenient and the Navy was kind enough to provide a week end bus to Rabat. I can only remember riding the civilian bus once, and maybe twice, but that was enough. It was not used by the French at all and it was a very interesting look at the poverty level and the mix of the local culture of the Arabs. The buses themselves were old and shabby, they were crowded and you could forget about ever getting a seat, you were differently a minority because NO Sailor in his right mind would want to ride that bus bad enough to go on Liberty! It was quite an experience to sit among veiled women, turbaned, bearded and robed Arabs that would give you the look of death for invading THEIR mode of transportation. You would be warned by those that had tried it, their "one time", but you would have to try it JUST once to see if it was all true, and it was. The bus did not have any particular stop and for that reason it seemed that at about every mile someone was getting off or someone was being picked up and what should have been a 45 minute or so ride could last an eternity. Some of the "back wood" natives would not have more than a hut for a home and of course were without the modern facilities to bath. That added to the smells of dogs, chickens, and some times other market animals carried aboard. It was like I have always said about my Navy experience, I am glad that I did it once, but I wouldn't want to do it again!)

The sky is a little cloudy but the sun will have it cleared off by the time I get there. I plan to take pictures of the places I visited last week.

Letter to Dolores AUGUST 19th, TUESDAY

We have been working long, hard, and late on Identification pictures for our fellow's French Hunting License (believe it or not) so that they will be finished in time so that we can take our Liberty tomorrow at noon. It seems everyone on the Base except Ike and I must be planning on going hunting!

We are listening for the sound of the Mail Plane to come in, it is something how we all learn to do that here, it has it's own sound it seems, it is becoming to me like an angel bringing love messages from home to all of us on the Base. It was due to land at 5:36 P.M. and now it is 5:50 P.M. You learn to get a bit worried when you are a part of an Air Base crew and a scheduled flight gets to be over due, ESPECIALLY when it has YOUR mail on it!

The Pilots had great pride in landing on their scheduled time, it was sort of a game between them. It meant nothing to be early, either, it was a test to see if they could put the wheels down at that exact minute they were scheduled to "touch down". I had been in a plane when the co-pilot called to the Pilot "NOW" as he was watching the dial of his watch and the pilot would hit the wheels to the runway! After checking in they probably collected a dinner or at least a drink from the crew that bet them who could come closest to the arrival time! Again, I say, there was no one more special and fun than the Navy Pilots.)

The policy of having your personal car sent from the States had been discontinued just before I arrived in Port Lyautey, but prior to that Servicemen with families coming to live with them in Port Lyautey were able to have their personal cars transported overseas by ship to them. There was some kind of fee involved, which wasn't that expensive, and the Senior Officer had to approve of it so that the person was a responsible Navy man. I remember shipmate Kiernan's car coming to Casablanca and he had to take a bus the hundred miles to pick it up.) We were well on our way to Rabat in his state-side car in some open and desolate country side when Kiernan said the temperature gauge for the water was going up on the car. As we sweat out the possible problem, it brought to my mind the time I had a "freeze plug" pop out of the Folks 1937 Plymouth when I was home on leave and I told the fellows about that story.

A freeze out plug was a circle of metal about an inch and a half round that fit into a like hole in the engine block. It was made so that if the engine water would freeze the plug would be forced out, preventing the engine block itself from cracking. The "permanent" anti-freeze of today was not yet in use and we relied on alcohol additives which were not all that reliable and "freezing up" and "boiling over" was not unusual. The freeze out plugs saved many a motor block. I am continually amazed to find how the different technologies have advanced in these 46 years since these letters were written. It makes me feel older than my 64 years at this writing.)

I told everyone how I was unable to get a replacement plug right then and where it had happened and there was no way the engine could be run without water in the system for cooling. I explained how I got a bright idea and carved a wooden "cork" from a scrap of wood that I got from my Shoemaker and, then and with his cobblers hammer, I drove it in and was able to drive away!

Just as I finished telling the fellows about my experience the temperature on the car went all the way to the top.---- and steam came from under the hood.---Guess what???? We had lost not one, but two FREEZE OUT PLUGS!! Now Morocco does not have gas stations out in the country, so we were very lucky to spot a watering hole near by. Some Cattle were drinking from the run off and a few Arab women and kids were drawing water from the hand dug well. Also difficult to find is any scrap of tree wood because the Arabs pick it all up for heating and cooking fires. You often see an Arab with his burro piled high with sticks and branches that he has collected and sells to his fellow Arabs. It took a bit of searching before we found the material to make a couple of plugs. We finally made the emergency repairs and then waited our turn at the watering hole. We had to wait while some native Arab women filled their tall clay vases with water and walked away with them balanced on the top of their heads. They were chattering away to each other in Arabic and smiling shyly, but it was apparent that EVERYONE got in line for their turn to drawing water. We were lucky to have had a bucket in the trunk and we filled the radiator and went happily on our way after I took some pictures of our African adventure.
Weather continues to be nice, although it was cold as heck Saturday evening and early Sunday morning. The road between Rabat and Port Lyautey was buried in fog and I thought that we would never get back without crashing into something.

Letter to Dolores AUGUST 21st, THURSDAY

I didn't write after mail Tuesday because word went out that mail wasn't to be sent out of here until next week. Now I discovered I can get a letter on a plane out of here tonight so I will work a quick answer to most of your letters so that I will keep getting mail from you.

PostScript I recall that it was not allowed for flights not listed as "Mail Service Flights" to accept posted mail and carry it to the States. There were times that we would have a special mail plane come in that was in the Mail Service and would deliver special Official Mail to our Base, or on their way to the Fleet. In that case our Base Postman could put a sealed bag aboard the plane and have it on its way back to the States. Federal regulations were such that when regular planes came in without mail service rating they were not allowed to take posted mail aboard. There were times that if you knew some of the crew members from past trips in, (especially the photographer!), we could depend, within reason, they would secretly do a privileged few a favor and take on a handful of letters. These would be dropped into a mail box when they hit the States. Security was so tight that they would not risk taking a package or a large bundle like the pack of pictures I had ready to mail that night. This is why you find Jerry "getting the word" at the last minute, now and then, that someone was willing to take on a few letters---"IF IT COMES DOWN--RIGHT NOW!!)

Letter to Dolores AUGUST 23rd, SATURDAY

I have been taking I.D. pictures of the new arrival of French Navy men, and I developed a roll of film that the Captain took himself. It didn't turn out very good---I am afraid that he is not much of a photographer but don't tell him I said that.

I am a bit low on "fluce" as the Arabs say--but I will head for Rabat and just walk the Medina and the Ocean. I have some film left and I will do some shooting.

The Teletype here told us that Wisconsin was the only place in the Midwest that has gotten some relief from the dry spell.....in the mean time the sun keeps on shinning here.

There was a bit of excitement out on the runway just now. They had a surprise fire drill, they unexpectedly burned a truck up on one of the landing strips and it was quite a blaze. I wish I had been tipped off so that I could have got there for some pictures. I know it was a surprise, because the Fire Chief would not pass up a chance to have some pictures taken otherwise.

Last night was the (baseball) All Star Game and we were all looking forward to listening to it on the radio. We couldn't get it on any of the radios around the Barracks so we had to give up and just hit the sack. Today we are still anxious to hear the results, you can realize how isolated we are from the States! Last year when the game was on I was at O.G.U. at the Lakes trying to get out of some detail and wondering if I could work out something to get home for the evening.

Letter to Dolores AUGUST 26th, TUESDAY

I checked out Rabat a bit more. I got outside the earthen East Wall that surrounds and encloses all of Rabat. I went out to the French Airport which is way out in the woods, it is there that the first Americans camped after the World War II invasion. I have been told that all of the French people walked from town out of curiosity to look at the Americans encamped there.
I walked through the "richer" residential and Government building section of Rabat and it is quite beautiful. There are lovely gardens, wonderful architecturally designed, and all white buildings. I saw the Tomb of Marshal Lyautey too.

I had a steak dinner at what has become my favorite restaurant just off the main street and a block or two from the Medina wall. I have learned not to take the table by the window because the poor Arab children come from the Medina and stand at the window to stare at the meals put on the tables. I made that mistake the first time, not knowing this would happen, the window otherwise gives a nice view. You must learn to ignore the children even if it is kind of sad to see the little ones begging. You quickly learn that if you pass some francs to them once they never let you go by again without expecting a hand out again. After I ate I headed up the Avenue to the best Hotel in Rabat called the "Belima". They have a very large outdoor seating area with many tables, a dance floor, and a stage for the Orchestra. I met a gang of the fellows sitting there listening to the French Orchestra and we remained there until it was time to head for the Bus and return to the Base. I went out to the Beach here on Sunday and stayed out on the sand until sun set. From there I went to the Beach Club for some chow and then went back to the Base.

Last night Ike and I went to McKlintics for Mac's surprise birthday party that his wife made up for him. It was a good time, lots of Champagne and plenty to eat. Mac is in charge of the parachute loft.

This afternoon I went to the birthday party of one of the little kids of one of the Navy men. I was the ONLY fellow there with about 6 or so wives---I did very well and had quite a time.---Of course the reason I was there was to take pictures!

This morning the Base Fire Department was called to Town to put out a fire, I and Ike answered the ready call together and went along to take pictures. We were expecting more, but it was only an old shed behind the movie house, and there wasn't much excitement at all. I did get some pretty good shots that will look good in the album.

Letter to Dolores AUGUST 28th, Thursday

I was surprised to hear that we will be going into Dress Blues beginning Sept. 15th. I never would have thought that we would have weather in Africa to allow that to happen, of course this is NORTH Africa! I will be glad to wear a suit of clothes for more than one Liberty again, and not be out for only an hour in white and look like I was out in the same uniform for a whole month.

Yesterday I went to Rabat and gave a guided tour of the city to a visiting civilian Technician from State side, and we had a good time. It made me realize that I know this town very good now. With all the interesting things to see we ended up in the Bakery-Candy-and Ice Cream Store and we stayed there until we burst. We were not in Rabat very long, but it was enough for me to feel satisfied that I had a day of freedom.

When we were in Rabat we did go for a steak supper before we came back here. It is really a treat going out to eat like that after being use to just eating out back home on only special occasions. I will tell you the truth, I would pay double what I pay for a steak dinner here to have a hamburger with you at the White Tower with a cold bottle of Coke!

Letter to Dolores AUGUST 29th, FRIDAY

Good weather continues, although you can tell things are changing, the mornings are always so cloudy and it looks like rain, very stormy, then and before you know it, it clears up and the sun is shinning.

As for Labor Day here, it is the last day that the Beach Club will be opened, meaning that even summer ends here in Africa, and it will probably be my last time to visit it, NOW isn't that something? We are making progress!! In turn the Rec Center opens this Tuesday for fall and winter and the first dance of the new season will be on Thursday. I hope that I miss it-----. Why? If I miss it, it will be because I will be back on Starboard Section and I will have my fifth week end off in a row! Ike said that we could have made a fortune in bets had we been sharp enough to know that I would be the one to pull off such a run. He says that as long as he has been here no one has ever put that many week end Libertys together.

Letter to Dolores SEPTEMBER 1st, LABOR DAY 1947

I enjoyed guiding the new visitor around Rabat, we went to the Medina and even I saw a little more than I had before. Some of the shops that we walked into were more like museums to us, old pistols, riffles, powder horns, some musical instruments, and many unusual things that we found hard to believe that they were for sale. The Medina is a very interesting and a very mystical place to be. There are merchants selling along the narrow streets outside and inside their small shops. There are tables loaded with many items, some times new and some times used. It is like walking into a Dime Store because of the variety they have. You never know what you are going to find, and you never know what it costs until you ask the Merchant and then it all begins. We have been warned that the first price given is never the true cost, that the Merchants EXPECT YOU TO BARTER! If you do not, you are the loser. A famous line of all the Merchants is when you let them know that the price is not right is "you speak---LAST price!" If you leave too much room between his last offer and your "last price" he will counter with another and repeat again "you speak, last price!", coming close to your face and looking you right square into your eyes. They become very disgusted if you do not buy, yet they DO have a bottom price where they will stand firm and pass up the sale very reluctantly. There are also shops of Arabic crafted works, in metal, cloth, wood, leather, and it is all like one big Fair. You can hear the chanting call of the Merchants which is like a pretty sing song chant. At times you can here chanting coming from the Mosques, and you can hear the call from the towers trough out the Medina reminding the Arabs to come to pray.