Naval Air StationPort Lyautey, Morocco

The following photographs are from the personal collection of Jerry (Gerald J.) Zimmerman who served at NAS Port Lyautey between 8/2/47 to 4/15/48. Copies of these photographs may be obtained in a larger format by contacting Jerry at Jerdadzim@cs.com. Former shipmates of Jerry may also contact him at the same e-mail address.

Photographs of Rabat

A view of the Medina in Rabat

A view of the marketplace on the outside wall that surrounds the city of Sale. The skyline of Rabat and the tower of Hassan can be seen in the distance.

On the Left............ The "back side" of Rabat's St-Pierre Cathedral, a large Catholic Church. I thought this view was more beautiful than the front! I attended the 1947 Christmas Eve Mass here

On the Right............ The 1947 Christmas Eve Mass at this beautiful St-Pierre Cathedral was a standing room only service, with an overflow of people standing outside on the entry way. A full string orchestra filled both side balconies and the large choir filled the back balcony. Although I was lonesome for home, family, and missing snow, (it was the first and only Christmas I have ever missed at home in Wisconsin) it was one that I have never forgotten.

A Rabat Gendarme standing in the center of Rabat's main and grand boulevard. I remember walking right to him and, without doing more than motioning to the camera I raised it to my eye and shot! The French policeman never blinked or moved. I saluted him off of up my white hat and went on my way.

Rabat's main street began at the Medina's wall as a broad, three-lane street for about three or four blocks before opening up to this beautiful, palm tree lined Boulevard. The railroad station was a block or two ahead on the right. I do not recall seeing many if any cars on the streets newer than the late 30s and pre-WWII. Walking seemed to be the main means of transportation, followed by the horse buggy taxies.

The Bank Of Morocco was huge and beautiful.

On the Left............ The Belima Hotel was Rabat's grandest hotel. In good weather customers chose to leave the inside bar to sit at the tables of the outdoor dining and lounging area.a.

On the Right............Because the Belima Hotel was a short distance from the railroad station, it became a meeting and gathering place for Port Lyautey sailors ending their Liberty and heading back to the Base.

A passenger and carriage driver looks at the photographer while seated at a sidewalk café's table and the camera to his eye. The hired horse-taxi (two-horse cushey) continued merrily on its way.

On the Left............Although not many because police would send them away, there were occasional street beggars on the streets of the French, downtown section of Rabat. My friend and fellow photographer, "Ike," had just handed this poor Arab women some appreciated francs. It was my understanding the unveiled women, and the way she dressed, indicated she was an unwed mother and condemned to beg to exist.

On the Right............This picture looks down the ancient, outside, North wall that surrounds Rabat.

On the Left............The 40 meter high Hassan Tower was designed and destined to become part of a mosque for Yakub al-Mansur. Construction began in the 12th century, only to have a 1775 earthquake halt and end its completion. On the Right............Although the climb to the top of the Hassan Tower was difficult, the breath-taking view of Rabat was worth it. There were no steps, just a steep, inclined passage way from one level to the next. A tourist points to a recognized part of Rabat's city to a friend at the top of the Hassan tower. The lack of protective, outer railings caused me much concern. The Atlantic Ocean can be seen on the horizon line.

Looking to the west and into the lowering sun from the Hassan Tower, one can see the Bou Regreg River's entrance into the Atlantic Ocean. The Media's wall begins at the river's edge and extends south to separate itself from the French quarters. The hill, buildings and Mosque immediately to the left of the river's entrance is the "old" Sultan's Palace and its historic grounds.

I was excited to find a traveling carnival had set up its tents and rides near the Medina's outer wall. Above two veiled Mothers wait for their child to complete their ride on an airplane that never leaves the ground.

An Arab attendant waits for riders of what was, I thought, an example of what a merry-go-round should not be! I did admire the beautiful, wooden fence surrounding the small carousel. The good news for the carnival was that when I returned later in the day, the mid-way was crowded with people and the carousel had a waiting line.

My shipmate and friend Willie Moore looks back over his shoulder to me as he leads the way down one of the many, narrow, and neatly kept streets of the Rabat Medina.

The Medina's fresh fruits were large and delicious. If one had the money there was plenty to eat and enjoy at the many different stands within and outside the small rooms along the street. Above, while the vendor keeps an eye on the photographer, two, well dressed youths, contemplate a purchase, and a rather forlorn looking child looks quickly away from the camera's range.

The Medina's meat markets made me cringe…no refrigeration, the only place in Morocco I knew there would be flies, yet, and from a distance, the meat always looked fresh, clean and edible.

Although I am not certain, my recall is that this group was waiting for a fresh, new hot greased pan of fried grasshoppers to be sold and served, much like waiting for fresh popped, popcorn in the States. I never convinced myself to try the Moroccan treat!

I visited the Rabat Medina often. It was not always a safe place for US servicemen, especially alone and at night. I became an exception. When I first took pictures and movies I hired one of the teenaged youths that hired out to guide and translate for the US servicemen. Before I did any "shooting" my young guide would stop and ask permission to photograph their stand and shop. If they preferred not, I didn't. Some that conceded would turn their head away. My guide informed me that some of the elder Arabs believed that if their image remained on earth they would not go to their heaven. I was pleased when some of the vendors, even though they didn't speak English, would smile and call out, as my guide called me, "Zim" or "Slim" as I walked by.

What I remember most about my first visit to the Sultan's Royal Palace grounds on the far, east side of Rabat was that I was the ONLY tourist, the only white person in sight. The well maintained complex was known by the NAS Port Lyautey servicemen as the "new" Sultan's Palace, thereby separating it from the "old" Sultan's historic Palace and grounds on the Oceanside.

There was a sense of peace about the areas of the Palace grounds a tourist was free to roam and photograph. There were more than one entrance and I learned that if the entrance wasn't guarded, it was permissible to enter that particular part of the grounds.

1361 is imbedded within the center of the star inside the medallion above the entrance. Although I never learned its significance, I am certain it was not a street number!

TThere were a number of different entries onto the Royal Palace Grounds, and no two were exactly the same. After greeting a friend who is wearing a Fez and walking towards the archway, another Arab continues walking towards the Palace with a large wooden chest on his shoulders.

At this entryway there was another one built into and through a second wall that was designed to provide, when required, privacy and protection.

In 1947 Guards were few if any at the far, outer walls of the Royal Palace Grounds. The closer a visitor came to restricted areas the guard's numbers increased, leaving little doubt as to where the tourist was or was not welcome.

My recall was that this beautiful building was the Sultan's residence.

Another prominent but un-identified building on the Sultan's Palace grounds. 60 years later I am left to wonder what the group of relaxed Arab's sitting on the drive were waiting for and why one Arab chose to sit by himself away from the group.

This was the Sultan's Palace Mosque. A single figure walking from the Mosque reminds me of how tall the beautifully tiled tower was. It helped make an otherwise plain, white building, stand out and demand being photographed. Black and white photography worked extremely well when photographing Port Lyautey, Rabat, and Casablanca in 1947-48.

I have never before visited a better designed and cared for set of gardens than the ones adjoining the Sultan's Palace grounds. Pictured above is one of many of the workers that made certain that was true.

Trucking, Moroccan style

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One of the many peaceful views found within the Sultan's Palace grounds. Often and when I strolled the park grounds, there were few visitors. There is a personal story about this fountain. On a previous visit a group of 6 or 7 year-old girls, all wearing identical school uniforms and guided by hooded Nuns, had surrounded the fountain. It was a "Kodak moment!" EXCEPT that my usually handy camera was back on the Base!

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